Original link: https://macin.org/2023/06/28/cang-ling-gu-dao/
Originally, I didn’t plan to hike that far. All I wanted to see was a glimpse of the scene in a movie ten years ago-Taiping Bridge.
The place names of Taiping Bridge and Gutan Reservoir have been in my memo for five years, because it is located in Xianju County, Taizhou City, Zhejiang Province, and I need to drive there in the future, which is really difficult for me who has no time.
When I inadvertently flipped through the memo, I found that I still had the urge to get there when I saw these pictures, so I made up my mind that I would never let my wish come true this year. What you can’t reach at the age of 20, you can reach at the age of 30.
When I was preparing for the strategy, I saw that Taiping Bridge was located at the end of the “Cangling Ancient Road”, one of the top ten ancient roads in Zhejiang. I couldn’t stand it on foot, so I decided to give it a try.
Cangling Ancient Road is the main traffic route from Wuzhou and Chuzhou to Taizhou in ancient times. Cangling Ancient Road starts from Canglingjiao Village, Huzhen Town, Jinyun County in the west, and ends at Canglingkeng Village, Xianju County.
Cangling has not existed since ancient times. The road is made by people, and the ridge is also made by people.
As early as the Tang Dynasty, part of the ancient road was opened. In the Song Dynasty, Zhu Xi also took this road when he traveled to Cangling to cross Yanmen. During the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty, it was extended, and its popularity gradually increased. In the Qing Dynasty, Jiaqing became more and more popular, and became an important market town in three prefectures and four counties. During the Daoguang period of the Qing Dynasty, the governor’s yamen of Jinyun County issued a map of Kuocang Mountain for business needs, and determined the route from Cangling Pit in Xianju to Cangling Foot via Nantian, which became an officially certified ancient road.
Our car parked in Kanxia Village , passing by the hometown of Yushi, which was the birthplace of Yushi Dai Hongyan in the Yongle period of the early Ming Dynasty. Along the way, there are many small shops selling red bayberries. The top ping-pong-sized Dongkui bayberry is 35 pounds a catty, and the lesser ones are 28 pounds, which is actually not expensive compared to the mainland. Then the further you go to the village, the cheaper the price is, so cheap that this kind of bayberry, which is also a normal size in my opinion, only costs 1 yuan a catty .
Kanxia Village is already the place where I found it amazing for the first time. The water flows on the gentle slope, splashing water when encountering stones, polishing the rough years into warm pebbles.
The rain was a little heavy, and the stream overflowed and flooded some roads, and a few stone slabs could open another section of the road. After entering the hiking route, it is a machine farming road at the beginning, and then the vegetation gradually becomes denser and enters the forest road.
Like every hike, I was always happy at the beginning. When I met mountains, water, and big rocks in streams, everything was a product of nature, and I was so happy that it was indescribable. At the beginning of the ancient road, we walked between the streams. Because the slope is large enough, we can still feel the rapid fall of the stream from a high place, and then splash a waterfall of mist. The stream is clear and cool to the touch, and the sense of happiness in summer increases sharply. .
If this ancient road is walking in the scorching sun, it must be the best experience. The sun is hot outside the mountain, the forest in the mountain covers the scorching sun, and the stream calms the mania. However, I experienced the rainy season when I hiked with chopsticks. When I set off, I was very worried. When hiking in the mountains, especially in places with a lot of water, heavy rain is a big taboo. Walking while walking becomes a life-threatening thing, and it will be on the social news.
Walking through this stream, you enter an ancient road with almost no road in sight. Due to lack of preparation, we all wore short sleeves. After a hike, we had pimples bitten by poisonous insects on our arms, wounds cut by thorns, and caterpillars that would appear at any time when we thought of them. .
The sky began to drizzle, and it fell on the ancient road covered with dead leaves, making the road slippery, and the sky became cloudy. It was past three o’clock, and we couldn’t help feeling a little worried and afraid. I am in a different place, with no mobile phone signal, unfamiliar environment and unfamiliar accent, I am afraid that I will not be able to understand the radio call for help.
I can only forcefully drag my tired feet, walking alternately between the woods and the bamboo forest. The conditions in the woods are more difficult, but the bamboo forest is much dry and comfortable. In the woods, you often don’t know which vine is strong and can help you, but almost every bamboo you see standing in the mountains can give you enough sense of security.
When I climbed a mountain pass, I finally felt some hope. I saw the traces of the predecessors’ hiking, and I felt a lot more relieved. Walking along the old track, I suddenly smelled a smell of rotten fruit. There was a bayberry tree in front of it, and the bayberries were scattered all over the ground. No one picked them up.
I didn’t care about the uncleanness, so I picked it up and fed it into my mouth. My brows were so sour that I wrinkled my brows, but my chest was full of joy. This was the first time we met the bayberry tree. There is an abandoned house behind the bayberry tree, and as we go deeper and deeper, we come to a village called Marin Street . Although the thatch is very much and deep, standing on the collapsed stone wall, you can still see the distant mountains and the clouds and mist wrapped around the mountainside, and your vision suddenly becomes clear.
There is a locked courtyard, which seems to be well preserved, and the inside is very depressed when seen through the crack of the door. It would be no different if the sun was shining brightly, but because it was nearly four o’clock and the sky was gloomy, coupled with the pattering rain, the feeling of terror and desolation penetrated from the soles of the feet to the back of the neck.
While leaving quickly, my companions and I lamented how difficult it is for the children here to study. I heard later that at most there were five or six families with nearly 30 people in this yard, and there were 5 college students, including a doctoral supervisor in medicine.
After coming out of Marin Street, everything is on the right track. Although the road is difficult, there is no need to worry about going the wrong way or not being able to get out of the mountains at night, and the psychological burden is reduced a lot. Although the road was difficult, it was half as good if the mind was calm. On the way down the mountain, the rain was getting heavier and heavier, so I simply gave up struggling and let my whole body get soaked.
There are many wild bayberry trees on the side of the road. The fruits are not big, and the sweetness is not bad when they are ripe. When I came to the bottom of the mountain, I found a bayberry tree. I would like to call it the bayberry of the Garden of Eden. Every fruit is heavy. About 29g, the appearance of the whole tree is so beautiful, the joy of harvest is innate to human beings.
The 200-meter section of the road down the mountain is almost full of bayberry trees. Some of them seem to be very old. I don’t know if they can be regarded as ancient trees.
Little Chopsticks’ time in Zhejiang is limited, so the 50km ancient road was forcibly shortened to a 10km small ring road.
But when I think of the porters who carried salt in ancient times, they would go from white to black as soon as they walked on this road, and I still feel amazing. Liu Yuxi once said in a poem that “travel halfway through the day, and look straight down from the mountains” to describe the danger of Cangling; It is said that Li Qingzhao also walked this ancient road and left no works. Perhaps it was because he was depressed and had no poetic feeling, or maybe it was too difficult for Cangling, and the poetess was also quite strenuous.
As a mountain city citizen, I also appreciate the feeling of hiking in the free shipping area. There are so many hiking routes in Zhejiang, if you have the opportunity, try one or two.
This article is reproduced from: https://macin.org/2023/06/28/cang-ling-gu-dao/
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