Original link: https://blog.fivest.one/archives/6152
Regarding the accident at the Beijing Rock Climbing Ground on May 22, Zhou Peng’s post described it in great detail: when the climber fell, the extension of the quick-hook at the highest point accidentally detached from the rock plug, which did not play a protective role. , causing the climber to fall on the stone platform in mid-air and eventually die.
The dead man was a climber with three years of experience. The post analyzes the climbing videos taken by the parties, and believes that there is no obvious problem with the operation of the climbing protection. Therefore, the occurrence of the accident was an “unexpected accident”. “The standard extension quick hanger comes out of the plug, this is an extremely unlikely event.” Then he analyzed in detail in the post, under what circumstances, the quick hanger may be detached from the plug, and what method can be used to avoid it This disengagement occurs.
However, the crux of the question is, shouldn’t the climber put an extra stopper in this scene? ?
Climbers should constantly preset every moment of climbing. If any part of the entire protection system fails, and you fall at this time, what serious consequences will happen? It may be a small probability that the quick hook will be separated from the rock plug; but the rock plug will fall off from the rock crevice, causing the protection point to fail. In traditional climbing, it is actually a very high probability. If the climber can think about when he puts the No. 6 plug, if the plug fails, he is likely to hit the stone in the middle, no matter how good the protection below is, it does not make any sense, then he should What is done is to place more than one stopper on top of the stone platform.
So, I think this accident can actually be avoided. To a large extent, there is an element of personal mishandling by the climber. – It’s understandable that individuals make mistakes, it’s just life and death. However, when other people sum up the accident, even a big guy like Zhou Peng, in the post, only repeatedly studies the small probability event of how the quick hang is separated, and does not mention the issue of “putting one more plug” at all. . This is what surprised me, even terrified me.
There is no unified authoritative teaching method for various technical operations during rock climbing. Most are passed on by word of mouth, or researched online by yourself. Some rock climbing schools or online tutorials do well write the teaching materials; but it is difficult to verify whether the knowledge learned by the learners is complete; it is also difficult to verify whether they will ignore some very important things, so that in the Dangerous in the changing climbing scene of the future.
Moreover, sometimes it can be clearly seen that the so-called “learning” of some people is just a set of operating procedures (such as how to clean up the top protection station after lead), and memorize it rigidly – this way of memorizing the operation steps, in the face of complex Scenarios are likely to go wrong. A better way is to constantly think about whether each of your operations is reasonable and whether there are insufficient considerations in different scenarios on the basis of your own understanding of the principles, which may lead to danger .
When building a protection station for traditional rock climbing, things to consider are words such as serene or ernest for mnemonics:
| S – Solid or Strong E – Equalized R – Redundant E – Efficient NE – No Extension |
E – Equalized R – Redunant NE – No Extension S – Solid or Strong T – Timely |
- Solid, are the protection points solid?
- Equalized, is the load-bearing of the protection station evenly distributed to multiple protection points?
- Redundant , any protection point falls off, are there redundant protection points to provide multiple guarantees ?
- Efficient / Timely, is the process of building a website fast and efficient?
- No Extension, when any one of the protection points falls off, can the other protection points statically hold all the weight in place, instead of dropping a short section first, causing a dynamic impact?
These are the points to be paid attention to in principle, rather than the requirements of specific operation steps. Conservation stations that meet these requirements can have many construction methods and structures, and are related to the scene at the time and personal style. Among them, Redundant (redundant) runs through all rock climbing operations. It can be said that in addition to the main rope and some metal fasteners, any other protection facilities need double protection.
On several occasions I have found some climbers to be seriously wrong. The other party’s climbing experience and climbing level are higher than mine. After I pointed out their mistakes, they could understand and correct them. But they wouldn’t realize it without someone pointing it out. ——If there is no accident, it is possible that such a wrong operation will not be discovered by them for a lifetime; however, when an accident occurs, such a mistake is likely to be fatal.
It can’t be blamed for this. The norms of the rock climbing industry are not complete enough, and then we call for stricter regulations and supervision, and everyone must hold a certificate to work in rock climbing… Complete norms are based on a large number of participants and social costs. Up. Many niche sports have this problem. Participants need to constantly self-check, think and complete themselves in the face of various scenarios on the basis of their own understanding of the principles. In a sense, “you don’t know what you don’t know” is a more terrifying risk than the occasional fall from a rock wall.
I’m not just talking about sports, but also in many places in life: only by choosing to conform can you get more complete norms and guidelines . For example, if you accept a nine-to-five job, there will be many tutorials that teach you how to choose a major, how to apply for a job, how to work security, how to add value to your pension investment, and how to achieve a spiritual balance between work and life… and If you don’t want this life, then, first of all, there is no tutorial to tell you what to do next. There may still be people who can help you; but, most of the time, you’ll just have to figure it out on your own. Many consequences due to incomplete consideration have to be borne by oneself. ,
——The so-called “non-conformity”, of course, is not only the difference between working and freelancers, it may also be farther, it may be a rejection of the entire consumerist social system, and it may not only mean how to find your own way of life, but How to find your own mind. So I had to think hard.
On the other hand, this kind of self-improvement without the guidance of the public is really exhausting. And after getting old, the energy is insufficient, and the possibility of omissions in thinking increases greatly, so I start to mutter, whether I should be forced to reduce this kind of self-exploration activities at various levels, which have a relatively high probability of death.
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