In the days of waiting for narcissus, there is the fragrance of Zhangping narcissus

Looking forward to looking forward to, the narcissus on the table finally bloomed in the Spring Festival.

From the fragrance of flowers, Zhangping Narcissus suddenly came to mind. Zhangping narcissus is not a flower, but the sweet “squeezed tea” that takes a lot of effort.

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Zhangping narcissus, the tea is carefully wrapped in tissue paper, and when disassembled, it is a colorful small square cake, weighing about seven or eight grams, which is just suitable for brewing a tureen. When the small tea cake was held in the hand and smelled, it was fragrant.

Can’t wait to boil a furnace of clean water, wait for the water in the pot to boil, white smoke curls up, and pour it while it’s hot. The tea cake gradually rises in the bowl, like a water lily floating on the water, and then slowly releases, like a dancer stretching out his limbs and fluttering his sleeves. This tea actually has a strange fragrance, like the fragrance of flowers, and it seems to have added a little rouge. When it comes to makeup, I have never seen such a refined makeup. It really looks a bit like daffodils! Say it is strong, but also elegant, say it is elegant, but it is really fragrant.

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Tea is fragrant in the water, not the kind of “fragrant fragrance” style that smells fragrant and drinks insipidly. After drinking the tea soup, it is sweet and smooth, but it is hard to conceal the fragrance. It seems that all the fresh style spices in the Song Dynasty’s “Xiangpu” have been condensed into nectar and drunk together. After drinking the tea leaves and looking at the bottom of the leaves, it is also soft and fragrant. I picked two or three leaves and placed them casually on the tea-wrapping tissue paper, as if the poetry had fallen on the drawing paper, which made people feel an impulse to embroider the pattern into a silk handkerchief.

In the name of the flower, narcissus tea and narcissus flower have the same artistic conception? How did such a good tea come about?

Unlike most Zhangping Narcissus on the market, which tastes like the “twin brother” of Tieguanyin, and the tea soup is so white that it makes people sick to the stomach, the truly traditional Zhangping Narcissus can also be calm and resistant to brewing, and can also be pure and clear , Back sweet and rhyme, with such an understanding, this Zhangping narcissus made by Chen Chongmu is sweet after removing the irritating substances as much as possible.

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Zhangping narcissus is hand-pressed with a wooden mallet

The birthplace of Narcissus tea tree is Dahu Village, Xiaohu Town, Jianyang, Fujian. “Narcissus tea is beautiful in quality and thick in taste, with small leaves and the freshest color, and it has the elegant atmosphere of mountains and rivers.” It is said that tea made from narcissus has “extraordinary fragrance, which is the crown of all teas”.

The “narcissus” of Zhangping narcissus has the same origin as the narcissus of northern Fujian. The narcissus of Wuyi Mountain has become the main variety of Wuyi rock tea, while the narcissus of Yongchun in southern Fujian and Zhangping in western Fujian was built from northern Fujian around the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China. Yang introduced. It is said that when it was first introduced, some varieties were improved locally. Zhangping’s narcissus tea, like Yongchun bergamot and Anxi golden osmanthus, was mostly exported to Southeast Asia in the early years, and was deeply loved by overseas Chinese. However, Zhangping Narcissus is still unknown in China. Except for its high-flavored fragrance and compact shape of small cubes, its quality is not very outstanding, and there are really not many memories.

Until 2009, led by several enthusiastic Peking University alumni, they went deep into Wuxi Village in Zhangping to plant tea, hoping to build their ideal “tea manor”. Cultural people who graduated from Peking University do agriculture, so naturally they must maintain ecological balance and sing about sustainable development. The technology of tea garden management is directly in charge of the microbiology expert Professor Qin Huobao. Health risks brought by pesticides and fertilizers in modern agriculture. It is said that the narcissus tea grown by microorganisms has a special aroma , and its green tea is stronger than the original local tea. Later, this group of people from Peking University named this mountain “Dayong Mountain”, which directly reminds people of Zhuangzi’s allusion of “useless use, only great use”.

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Pest control on Dayong Mountain

Now go to Wuxi to see the tea garden of Narcissus tea. Once you enter the gate of Dayong Mountain, you can feel its unique aura. This kind of aura is not necessarily all brought by the mountains and forests, but more of the air is permeated with a scholar’s yearning for pastoral life. The land is quite large, and it doesn’t matter whether it is “the grass is full of beans and the seedlings are sparse”, the key is It must be in line with the Taohuayuan understood by intellectuals. It is also because of Dayongshan’s investment that Zhangping Narcissus Tea has gained popularity in the domestic famous tea market. Professor Qin’s son opened a teahouse in the Zhongguan New Garden of Peking University, allowing tea lovers in Beijing to see its true face. Later, Zhangping held a tea fighting competition locally, which brought up the price of Zhangping narcissus within a few years. So far, the “legend” of Dayong Mountain is still a topic of conversation among local tea farmers in Zhangping.

Dayong Mountain is located in Wuxi Village, Nanyang Town, but if we want to talk about the history of Zhangping Narcissus becoming cube tea, we must start from Zhongcun in Shuangyang. However, most of the tourists who come to Zhangping Narcissus often stop when they arrive at Wuxi River, and hardly explore any further.

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The Nakamura tea garden that produces Zhangping narcissus is located in a high-altitude mountain and has passed organic certification.

The geographical location of Zhongcun is very close to the “Jipeng River” where Xu Xiake drifted in the past. If you drive up the mountain from Zhangping City, you will first pass through Wuxi Village and continue to climb along the road before arriving at the Jiupeng River Scenic Area. To enter Zhongcun, continue on the small mountain road near the entrance of Jiupengxi Scenic Area, which is very remote.

Now the mountains around the Jiupengxi Scenic Area are really like the “recovering peaks piercing the sky” described by Xu Xiake. The mountains are hard rocks, and the vegetation on the mountains is rich and dense. If they are cultivated properly, they are also good mountain farms that can produce good tea. Narcissus tea has a long history in Zhongcun. A local tea farmer told me that the pressing process of Narcissus tea was improved in Zhongcun. During the Republic of China, Narcissus tea was exported to Nanyang. Perhaps for the convenience of transportation, Mr. Deng Guanjin made the tea Compressed and molded, shipped to other places for sale, this move also established Xiazhangping Narcissus as the only compressed tea among traditional oolong teas.

Zhangping narcissus is produced in the Zhongcun tea garden, which is located at a high altitude and deep in the mountains, and has passed organic certification.

Good tea is always refreshing . During the Spring Festival, a cup of rock cinnamon-flavored Zhangping narcissus is as leisurely and sweet as promised.

The original author of this article: Taohua An

Minor changes for this publication

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