In March, I just learned that I was in Xinjiang when the Shanghai community was closed. So I went to the south of Sichuan and ate casually all the way in the name of dietary research. It’s the magical combination of old friends food guide @bethnorgreen , photographer @xiahaoimages author and nutritionist @sesame sauce .
The rhythm is slow, the food is more, and the less is in Sichuan, the words are very true.
觅食清单见文末
Tea House Tea House is the place to play mahjong
Leshan
The night before, I flew from Urumqi to Chengdu, barely slept for three hours at Shuangliu Airport, and picked up the morning high-speed train at 6 o’clock. The Leshan bus driver was particularly fierce, honking his horn frantically without slowing down on the street. The store opened at 8:30, and the first meal was bowl of bean curd .
*双流机场有高铁站，可以直达乐山、宜宾等地市。
The Leshan Douhua is wrapped in goreng juice and egg flower, stir well before eating. The celery mustard is crispy, the fried crispy meat is crispy and thin, the freshly sprinkled peanuts are crispy and hard, but the beef is soft and plump, and small pieces of fat intestines are also mixed in the bowl. After chewing on the taste, it exploded and spread out, wow, mouth There’s a big uproar.
A bowl of warm belly is really a great comfort to the tired body and mind.
The ingredients are different for each family, but they all say that the taste is scattered, and the other bowl that I eat is added with fried soybeans and sprinkles.
After eating bean curd, I was summoned by my travel companions to Suji Town , where I had served the famous snack Xu Liang Cake from “Bite of the Tongue”. Ordered cold cake, brown sugar ice powder and Sanxian (mashed grain) ice powder. The taste of the cold cake is very special, it is smooth and glutinous and has the fragrance of grain, and the aftertaste is a bit like egg yolk.
What he uses at home is sanded brown sugar , which is dense and grainy, and it is also a rare top grade in Leshan snack bars.
Let’s have a cake , a snack similar to lotus leaf cake. The beef and pork rind is steamed in a mini steamer, and the slag is crazy while biting.
four katana cakes
But this trip is not just for the cold cakes and cakes. Leshan Suji is the birthplace of rock- footed beef .
A street along the banks of the Emei River is full of beef with legs, so I just found the one with the most family members to sit down. The authentic ones are served in small bowls (instead of the popular hot pot in other places): beef, beef offal, fat intestines, blood wang, mapo tofu and roast beef bone marrow. The soup base is delicious and the boiled cabbage is delicious.
Maybe we brought cameras and the boss came over to talk. Talking about a hundred years ago, the river in front of me was a slum area. The old Chinese doctor cooked the heart, liver, stomach and lungs in a soup pot to help the working people, and added more than 20 Chinese herbal medicines to dispel the cold. The earliest rock-footed beef did not have beef, and it was often criticized for being “extremely salty” because it had to be eaten. Everyone put one foot on the horse stool and dipped it in salt to eat, hence the name “stilted feet”.
The civilian food that really originated from the public.
Before leaving Leshan, I ate a fried skewer. The Didi driver said that the famous Yingzi fried is just an internet celebrity, so I got off the car and changed my mind and switched to their own fried skewers across the street.
Of course, the skewer should be accompanied by the local drink Emei Snow Soda, the taste of lychee essence is more natural than expected.
Yibin
Leshan to Yibin is the boundary of southern Sichuan, where the Jinsha River began to be called the Yangtze River and merged with the Minjiang River. The food style has also changed from Shanghe Gang (Chengdu Leshan), where crispy meat is slightly sweet, to Xiaohe Gang (Yibin Zigong), from warm fusion to hot and exciting, red oil and millet pepper powder.
A small bomb mixed with sugar and oil like Yinsi Roll (Bird’s Nest) can still be made soft, waxy, delicate and rich in layers in Yibin.
Fragrant bamboo cage, sprouts buns & silver silk rolls (Luzhou pig’s cakes) 
The temptation of burning noodles is irresistible. I like hard noodles very much: sangzi, sea pepper, salt, monosodium glutamate, a big soak of lard, and the soul – sprouts . It’s delicious to mix the soles with one pass.
On the way to the burning noodles on Liuchen Street, I passed a cellar. I was inconspicuously crowded into the alley by the old communities. The aroma wafted out for dozens of meters. I could vaguely see the shadow of the distiller and the pile of liquor. Unfortunately, it is not allowed to visit. Photograph. Later, the driver said that it was one of the earliest old pits in Wuliangye , with a history of more than 650 years.
clean with respect
Burning noodles is a common way to eat it on a plastic stool by the side of the road. It is more authentic to have a bottle of precious fruit from the canteen next door. No one can tell how this kind of fruit sugar water produced in Guangdong has become a special product of Yibin. I rolled my eyes when I took the first sip, and the more I drank, the more I drank.
In addition to the famous “non-legacy burning noodles” on Renmin Road/Zhongshan Street, the famous shop also has burning noodles on Heping Street, behind the pork stall.
In addition to burning noodles and mushroom soup noodles , there are more than 20 kinds of menus hanging on the wall, and there are more than 20 kinds of shoji with the same toppings. Mushroom and ginger duck are more special. A layer of golden chicken oil floats in the soup, and the umami goes straight to the sky.
We also ate a kind of pasta called ” Chicken Potou “. The owner said that the post-80s generation in southern Sichuan had eaten it since childhood, and it was named after a woman’s baotou cloth. The dough is placed in a circle, and the soup base is sour and spicy. Because the thickness is uneven, the taste is rich.
The star of Yibin’s food in the morning is burning noodles, and the star in the evening is barbecue . The delicious local barbecue seems to be open at the gate of the community. The taxi hit a dead end road that was blocked by the construction site. The surroundings of the two barbecue restaurants were dark, except for the trucks, which were a long line of diners.
In Yibin, on the border of Sichuan and Yunnan, according to the driver, a group of townships and counties have been assigned to Yunnan in the past 20 or 30 years, and the barbecue style has also been passed on from there. Yibin’s style of barbecued pork skewers and dipping in dry dishes is closely related to Zhaotong ‘s roasted pork.
One of the essences is the pork nose tendon , because it is easy to block the teeth because it is constantly bitten, but this one is very glutinous, a bit like duck tongue, which is very good. The second is half-strength , that is, half-fat and half-lean meat. It pays attention to the fat and thinness of the same part, which is cut at the junction of fat and thin, rather than lazily stringing fat and thin together.
Xiu Xiu BBQ
The driver of raw mixed beef said that the taste of each family is similar, and it depends on the hygiene situation. There is also pulped tofu , and the mouth is intoxicating with a small dollop of soft pulp. Traveling companion: It is the soul to eat together with the folded ear root, me: Dabaa.
The folk flavors of southern Sichuan are often found in local townships and counties, such as Yibin Grape Well Cool Cake , Lizhuang White Pork , Niufo Baked Elbow and Fushun Douhua from Zigong next door… They are also closely interlinked. Spring is the season), I rushed to the store and found the words “Zigong Characteristics” on the door…
Longxiang fish head, great
The impression of being good at making mountain treasures also comes from the place. For example, the Shunan Bamboo Sea , an hour away from the urban area, is a “scenic spot” with good scenery but the experience is dragged down by the level of development. In addition to the summer resort, it also features a full bamboo feast full of bamboo products.
Figure | Xia Hao
But if you don’t speak the local language, you can easily get slaughtered in Zhuhai, so I found a shop in the city to punch in the ingredients. The fresh bitter bamboo shoots and sauerkraut, which are only available in spring, are made into soup. The aftertaste is bitter but refreshing, like fresh lotus cores. A fried egg with bamboo sun , I feel that the entrance is very earthy, and the food guide praised it as the flavor of truffles.
Eat ordinary bamboo shoots , as well as very crisp bamboo flowers (bamboo bird’s nest, a kind of fungi on bamboo), bamboo fungus embryo (unopened bamboo fungus), bamboo hair belly (the lid of bamboo fungus, which grows Like hairy belly), fried bamboo shoots pupa (the pupa of bamboo shoots, terrible). Cooking methods such as frying, frying, etc. are covered, and most of the utensils are made of bamboo, which is a magical experience.
Next door, there is a Zhuo Simei Hot and Sour Chicken Feet . The stewed vegetables are overweight and mixed with spices. It is sour and spicy. It is said to be a famous local time-honored brand.
Another interesting local flavor is Gaoxian soil hot pot . The top one is called sharp knife balls , the pork and goreng are adjusted to a very tender but not powdery state. The traditional method is to use a knife to scrape out a triangle on the palm of the hand and put it in the pot.
Pork bones and golden hook sea rice soup, the whole pot is like a Buddha jumping over a wall, kelp, fungus, dried tofu, mushrooms, pork trotters, crispy meat and chicken are spread out layer by layer, like a treasure hunt. Potatoes, fish and fish out a piece of bamboo shoots… It’s almost bottomless, four people can still fish after eating all the vegetables.
If there is a lot of belly, of course you can add something to it, for example, Yibin smells like a thousand pieces . One by one, they shouted for help, and they were defeated.
Tintin cat home cooking
The south bank of the Jinsha River is a new urban area. In the cafes with excellent environment and products, you can drink a great special Wuliangye dirty .
Floating coffee, photo | Xia Hao
But most of the time it is still in the old town. Among the four cities in southern Sichuan, I think Yibin has the best preserved and most visible old city culture . With the Daguan Building as the center, the old church, the old wine cellar, the South Yunnan Museum, and the Nvxue Street are all within walking distance.
Walking along the Sanjiang River at night is very comfortable. On the way back to the hotel, I could hear the small shops along the street cooking in the dark, preparing for the next day’s sham. It’s the smell of smoke.
Gongxing Street Church / South Yunnan Guild Hall 
sun sign sign 
Sichuan Spring Vegetable Market
Going to the vegetable market brings a great sense of happiness: the old people in the outer circle set up a dragon gate array in the teahouse, the grocery shoppers stroll around with bamboo baskets on their backs (some baskets also contain small dolls), and the vegetable sellers bring vegetables and roosters with their legs tied Carrying the burden, he threw his wings in front of us like a mischievous mischief.
*后面去内江拍的也放在这里，图里有两个菜场：宜宾新街农贸市场，内江桂湖街临时摊区。
Honeycomb/Children’s Vegetables/Preserved Eggs/Raw Smelly Thousand Pieces of Deity
Broad beans, fresh bamboo shoots, young ginger, rouge radish, herbs from Yunnan… The seasoning shop sells sprouts from the old altar, and there are also many local wineries: the unblended puree comes with its own container and weighs, and the leftovers of the distiller’s grains are piled up in At the door of the store, it is steaming, you can buy it back to feed the chickens.
(Neijiang) A vegetable stall in the downstairs of Cheongzi 
Butcher’s love is everywhere
It is rare to see such a large number of living creatures in an urban vegetable market, and I learned a very cruel word called “killing”. The fish in the aquatic area are scraped to remove their internal organs, as are eels, soft-shelled turtles, loaches and several kinds of frogs. Look at the appearance first, and then deal with them on the spot.
I understand why food writer Wang Gang (a native of Zigong) always says in the videos: The ingredients can be handed over to the enthusiastic stall owners. The stall owner is omnipotent!
live rabbit 
Holding two ducks in one hand, next to it is handling haggis
It is a basic operation to sell lettuce leaves (tops) and cores separately, and lotus root and ginger are not muddy. All the beans are selected and peeled, as is the garlic, potatoes, taro, water chestnuts, peeled, snails, and prickly ash. The threshed corn and shredded carrots are beautifully placed in a small dustbin. Look happy.
Shredded carrots to serve
Those days in southern Sichuan were also specially arranged by God. Every day was sunny and the only heavy rain was at night. Being able to walk among the crowds in the market, turning five or six snack bars a day, and taking off the mask to bask in the sun… When there is depressing news all around, this spring is as extravagant as it was stolen.
Life is too short to regret.
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