On August 12, L’Oreal R&D and Innovation Center held a special sharing session on PRO-XYLANE TM with the theme of “ Sweet Anti-aging, One Glass ALL IN “ . Adhering to the principle of openness and transparency, it shared with the public. A summary of L’Oréal’s 20+ years of research on Boseine. L’Oreal R&D said that it is continuing to explore the new effects of Boseine, enriching the types of Boseine raw materials and launching a new raw material, Boseine PRO, to improve the formulation technology of Boseine products to improve product efficacy and create better skin. and plans to launch more different types of Bosein innovative products this year to meet the different anti-aging needs and experiences of consumers.
Mr. Maxime DE BONI, Vice President of L’Oreal North Asia and China R&D and Innovation Center, said:
“The L’Oréal Group is a science-driven company with more than 110 years of research and innovation leveraging the best science and technology to deliver the highest quality, effective, safe and responsible beauty products to every consumer. Today, Beauty Innovation in the field of makeup is playing an increasingly important role in people’s pursuit of a healthier and better life and promoting the development of the ‘beautiful and healthy’ ecosystem. Bosein products are the representatives of the group’s ‘Co’ model of cooperation and co-creation. Combining the experience of French research and development and the insight of Chinese research and development on local consumer demand, we will create innovative products that suit the skin characteristics and anti-aging needs of Chinese consumers. In the future, we will also make full use of the group’s research and development strength in the world and the golden delta of North Asia , integrate advantageous resources, serve Chinese consumers with more and better innovations, and benefit the world.”
Life science enters the era of glycobiology and discovers the key target of skin anti-aging – glycosaminoglycan
Anti-aging is an eternal topic in the beauty industry, and the scientific community has been constantly exploring the mechanisms related to the aging process and looking for new technologies to effectively combat skin aging.
Scientists have discovered that carbohydrates are important biological macromolecules, and their structural diversity enables them to carry far more information than proteins, nucleic acids and fats combined. After nucleic acids and proteins, the information carried by carbohydrates is considered to be the third language of life. Glycobiology is considered to be the frontier of life sciences in the 21st century, and is also hailed by MIT as one of the top ten disciplines that will bring about the future medical revolution.
As a pioneer in the beauty industry, L’Oreal has been conducting research on skin and hair-related glycobiology since the 1990s, discovering the important role of carbohydrates in skin aging, and determining that glycosaminoglycans ( GAGs ) are the anti-aging properties of the skin . It has found a new entry point for skin anti-aging. Glycosaminoglycans can help regulate skin cell proliferation and differentiation, inflammatory processes, and the composition and quality of the extracellular matrix, leaving the skin plump and supple. Macromolecules such as glycosaminoglycans and proteoglycans are an important indicator for evaluating whether the skin is aging. The content of these macromolecules in young skin is higher than that in aging skin, because the original glycosaminoglycans in the skin will be lost over time. At the same time, the ability of the skin to synthesize molecules such as glycosaminoglycans also decreases with age, which in turn causes the skin to lose its firmness and elasticity, and to appear wrinkled.
In order to translate these research findings into new anti-aging ingredients, L’Oréal R&D began to try to synthesize a compound that, when applied to the surface of the skin, would promote the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans through normal absorption.
Unique Boseine raw material: 200+ molecules selected, green chemistry, strict quality control
The inventor of Bosein, Dr. Maria DALKO-CSIBA, a scientist at the L’Oreal R&D and Innovation Center, shared the process of inventing Boseine: they first discovered the glycosaminoglycan Most of the synthesis of macromolecules such as sugar requires xylose (a natural component extracted from beech wood) as a starting material. Inspired by this, Dr. Maria and his team stimulated the skin’s natural regenerative abilities by mimicking the structure of xylose. From 1999 to 2000, they synthesized more than 200 xylose derivatives in total, and evaluated them from multiple perspectives such as safety, efficacy, stability and skin absorption rate. – Boseine. The entire research and development process of Bosein molecule lasted 5 years. On the premise of ensuring overall safety, the efficacy evaluation was repeatedly conducted, and every possible effort was made to provide consumers with the best anti-aging functional raw materials to help subsequent formulation and product development.
As an active anti-aging ingredient independently developed by L’Oreal, in the course of more than 20 years of research, L’Oreal Group has published a total of 12 scientific literatures related to Bosein, and applied for more than 70 Bosein-related scientific documents worldwide. patent. These studies demonstrate that Bosein exerts biological effects in all layers of the skin (epidermal, dermoepidermal junction, and dermis), and is validated by human testing: Bosein can stimulate the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and proteoglycans by promoting , to promote epidermal renewal, strengthen skin structure, restore skin firmness and elasticity, improve wrinkles, fine lines, and increase skin luster and elasticity . These findings have breakthrough significance in the field of skin anti-aging, and also established Bosein as one of the classic anti-aging ingredients that are highly respected by consumers.
For more than 20 years, L’Oréal R&D has continued to explore the new efficacy and mechanism of Boseine, and was pleasantly surprised to find that Boseine can help strengthen the skin’s self-repair mechanism, promote skin repair and anti-aging , and will also promote follow-up product innovation.
L’Oreal’s research and innovation on Bosein has also penetrated into industrial preparation and production. The manufacturer of Boseine, Novéal, a raw material development and production enterprise under L’Oreal, as a strategic partner of L’Oreal’s R&D and innovation, continuously develops and innovates the technological process of raw material production, integrates the concept of sustainable development into process design, and is committed to To provide high performance, high purity and sustainable raw materials and ingredients. Through the unremitting efforts of Novéal, the preparation of Boseine raw materials has achieved industrial production that fully follows the 12 principles of green chemistry [1] , becoming the first anti-aging molecule in the industry to follow the principles of green chemistry. The chemical synthesis of Boseine has been simplified into two steps. Its two main raw materials are biological sources, which come from by-products of the circular economy. In the production process, water is used instead of organic solvents, and recyclable catalysts are used. The impact on the environment is reduced to a certain extent. Compared with 2007, the synthetic yield of Boseine has increased from 70% to 90%, the waste generated per kilogram of finished product has been reduced by 20 times (2007-2021), and the overall ecological footprint has increased by 40% (2007-2018).
The characteristics of sugar molecules determine that even the same molecular formula has different effects due to different spatial structures, as is the case with Bosein molecules. Therefore, Novéal is also constantly optimizing the production process of Boseine, strictly controlling the quality of Boseine raw materials, and under the premise of following the principles of green chemistry, to ensure that the final Boseine raw materials have the best isomer ratio, Ensure safety and optimum efficacy with the highest standards. In addition, Novéal has also continuously enriched the categories of Bosein raw materials, and recently launched a new concentrated Bosein raw material – Bosein PRO. The physical and chemical properties of the two raw materials are different, which will affect the skin feel and skin when formulating. Formulation stability has different effects, providing more possibilities for subsequent product formulation development.
Advanced Bosein formula technology: promote absorption to ensure efficacy, and optimize skin feel to satisfy the experience
To make a perfect bake, it takes the expertise of the baker to have good flour ingredients. The realization of the development from Bosein raw materials to Bosein products requires the blessing of the formulation technology of cosmetic formulators. After Dr. Maria synthesized the Bosein molecule, the formulators of L’Oreal’s R&D and Innovation Department worked for two more years, and in 2006, the first product containing Bosein was officially launched.
Since then, we have never stopped the pace of formula innovation, continuously improved the formula technology, and continued to improve the skin absorption rate and skin feel of Bosein in the formula, and applied for more than 30 patents related to formula technology worldwide, accounting for all the Group’s About 40% of Bosein-related patents cover formulation technology innovations in areas such as skin absorption rate, skin feel, and product innovation.
Many consumers are very concerned about the added concentration of Boseine raw materials in Boseine products, which is also out of expectation of efficacy. But in fact, the skin absorption rate of Boseine is the key to determining the anti-aging effect of Boseine . The more Boseine absorbed by the skin, the stronger the biological effect and the better the anti-aging effect on the skin. In addition to the physical and chemical properties of Boseine raw materials and the concentration of Boseine added to the product, formulation technology also plays a crucial role in determining the skin absorption rate. Bose in the product has the same added concentration of raw materials, but due to the difference in formula technology, the skin absorption rate is different, and the efficacy is also significantly different.
In the past 20 years, the L’Oreal R&D and Innovation Center has continuously challenged itself, made breakthroughs in innovation, refined formulation technology, and improved the skin absorption rate of Boseine, thereby providing consumers with more effective Boseine products. Compared with the first-generation Boseine product formulation, the latest formulation technology can increase the skin absorption rate of Boseine by more than 70 times at the same concentration of raw materials.
In addition to efficacy, the skin feel of a product is also crucial for consumers. Due to the unique characteristics of Bosein raw materials, when formulating products, we also use different formulation techniques to ensure that different types of Bosein products can create a wonderful and different skin feel to meet the needs of different consumers. experience needs.
The sharing session also disclosed for the first time L’Oreal Group’s latest exclusive formulation technology: double osmotic micropump technology . After more than 700 formulation tests, L’Oreal China R&D and Innovation Center has developed this formulation technology for Bosein PRO based on a deep understanding of Chinese consumers’ skin care needs, which can effectively solve formulations containing high concentrations of Bosein ingredients. Stability and create a new skin feel experience: its dense porous structure can better carry and stabilize higher concentrations of Boseine, and promote skin absorption; while the layered structure is layered through layers of moisture and oil, It simulates the arrangement of natural lipids on the skin surface, which makes the product easier to push and has a better skin-sticking feel; it is also conducive to forming a water-locking barrier, locking in moisture firmly, and achieving long-lasting moisturizing. Formulated products using double osmotic micro-pump technology can effectively promote the skin absorption rate of Boseine. The test results show that the skin absorption rate of Boseine that can be achieved by the high-concentration Boseine cream using the double osmotic micropump technology is 20.9 times higher than that of the unused cream, far exceeding the concentration multiple of the raw material itself.
L’Oreal’s research and development and innovation will be committed to continuous innovation to provide consumers with Bosein products with the best concentration, the best efficacy, and the best user experience. It is reported that this year, the related brands of the Group have successively launched more different types of Bosein innovative products in the Chinese market to meet the various anti-aging needs of Chinese consumers.
[1] Green chemistry is an emerging branch of chemistry. Based on the principle of “atom economy”, it studies how to make full use of raw materials and energy in the process of producing target products and reduce the release of harmful substances. Green chemistry aims to maximize the efficiency of the reaction, minimize the loss, minimize the damage to the natural environment, reduce the generation of waste in the process from the source to the final product, and reduce the pollution or impact on the environment. influences.
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