City Walk Guide (Half)|May you find “peace” in Hefei

foreword

Nanjing has been a “national historical and cultural city” since ancient times. After the high-speed railway opened, Nanjing has become a popular destination for students from Anhui to study and work, so Nanjing has the playful reputation of “Hui Jing”. Presumably this is also the main reason why I am often asked: “Why did you choose to go to Hefei instead of Nanjing in the first place?”

Perhaps compared to a city like Nanjing that can easily evoke a reader’s sense of picture , Hefei’s presence is much lower. Presumably if it is not for special reasons, people generally do not choose such a “less topical” city as a destination for a holiday or planning a trip.

1 For urban commuting, you can always receive “blessings” from Hefei Metro Line 3

In the one and a half years of working and living in Hefei, I have never set foot in the scenic spots in Huizhou such as Huangshan, Huainan, Wuhu (there should be an exclamation mark here), etc., nor have I visited the popular Bao Park, Pedestrian Street, Xiaoyaojin, Hefei Chai, 1972 ; instead, he took the subway and a car to travel around many inaccessible corners of Hefei City. At the end of the writing, I found that compared with the urban landscape and scenery, the most beautiful thing in Hefei is people and things; if you visit Hefei, you might as well travel lightly and feel the “space of its own” in these small places.

But if you are ready to set off for work or study in Hefei, congratulations to what may be the “most beautiful” city, as the title says:

May you find “peace” in Hefei.


In Hefei: “Don’t travel in the mountains, don’t play in the water”

At the foot of Dashu Mountain|Burning Incense, Fishing

Climbing “Dashu Mountain” seems to be a daily routine for Hefei friends who love sports, and meet on weekends. But friends who don’t like sports at all and are obsessed with those crazy Thursdays, may choose some relatively gentle ways to visit Dashu Mountain.

1 When burning incense, the master of Nanshan Temple said that it is best not to take pictures of the Bodhisattva from the front, so this is an online picture.

Kaifu Temple , located at the foot of Dashu Mountain, is easily accessible by bus and subway. Since the city government rebuilt the ruins destroyed in the Japanese invasion of China in 2001, Kaifu Temple has been burning with local residents’ “expectation”. “Peace” incense. Although it is built on a mountain, Kaifu Temple is friendly to knees and fat houses (referring to myself), and walking from the gate to the highest main hall is just seven or eight stories high.

1 The ticket price is only 20 yuan, but I will buy a few sticks of peace incense.

I am not a Buddhist, but I can cross the threshold of the temple with my hands folded, and burn a stick of incense every month when I receive my salary. People don’t have to believe in religion, but they must have beliefs other than “financial freedom”, which enables people to have some bottom line beyond morality when faced with difficult choices.

1 The temple of Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva is located in the northeast direction of the Mahavira Hall, which can only be seen by walking through the small road on the right side of the main hall.

It is not necessary to go to Jiuhua Mountain in person to worship Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva, because the family has a tradition of offering incense and burning paper to the ancestors. The Buddhist auspicious number is “three” , so the custom of respecting incense is also based on three sticks. After lighting the incense, remember not to blow out the incense, just shake it gently like a bow.

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At the foot of Mount Shu, just across a road, is a farmhouse fish pond that only locals and fishing enthusiasts know about. Sitting idle with two male friends from the company for an afternoon, I also got one or two big fish; if you are willing to spend hundreds of dollars, let the chef kill it now and cook it with some local dishes and wine. Shushan’s non-climbing trip can be regarded as “a worthwhile trip”.

Emerald Lakeside|Anhui-style romantic

My classmate and friend “Mr. Orange” when I was studying can be regarded as a family member, working as a pastry chef in Hefei; so although I live by the Emerald Lake, I only make a special trip to help when it needs to be introduced. Take pictures.

1 Locals occasionally choose to hold an “outdoor wedding” at the Emerald Lake State Guest House

Emerald Lake is located in the southwest of Hefei, and it is also a place that non-surrounding residents will not go to play specially. If it is a summer night, riding or strolling along the Emerald Lake after dinner is rarely hot and noisy. It is worth mentioning that during the night tour of Emerald Lake, you can also see young college couples holding hands, talking and laughing along the “Lake Ring Road” as if they can’t reach the end at all.

1 I used to commute on the road by the lake every day, and I also had a lot of cranky thoughts about life.

The name “Emerald Lake” is actually a scenic spot that surrounds the university town, so compared to “Chao Lake”, it is not the main destination for tourists to “play with water”. However, due to the pressure of the epidemic, even the “Guijie” food city in Hefei, which opened vigorously back then, has become desolate as many businesses have successively withdrawn their leases. Not a lot.

From “Guijie” to “Central City”, strictly speaking, they are all by the Emerald Lake. There will be new “Script Killing” and “Wolfman Killing” shops one after another. I used to frequent a small shop called “Luyao”. , because the boss’s name is Xiaolu, and the boss’s wife’s name is Ayao. There are a lot of regular customers in the store, and everyone seems to be quite aloof from the world when they play relative to other colleagues who are full of hostility.

1 Even after leaving Hefei, there will be friends for my sake (thanks but not necessary)

Since it is difficult to accurately predict the pigeon rate , sometimes everyone will not be disappointed when there are not enough people. Laughing and chatting all night. I thought that the two of them were rich second-generations who did not worry about food and clothing, but in fact they were well-off. The reason for opening a store together was just love and wanting to do a business together .

Some time ago, there was news of the transfer of the store in the group, but I still saw Xiaolu and Ayao in the circle of friends continuing to travel around the mountains and water; so I think Hefei people are romantic in their bones, and even the worst economic situation has not changed them. Snobbish, they can’t stop the life they love .

Chain restaurants that locals also eat

It is well known that “Hui Cai” is about equal to hairy eggs , stinky mandarin fish and hairy tofu (not). Not surprisingly, as soon as I arrived in Hefei, I was greeted with a meal of “Tongqing Lou”. The quality of this old-fashioned restaurant with authentic Anhui cuisine is naturally one of the best local chain brands. But for tourists who travel, there are also many good things that locals can eat, and they are not affected by the phenomenon of “chain restaurants”, which is now almost equivalent to being labeled as “unpalatable”.

From chicken soup to milk tea – the good taste of “locals”

1 Who would have thought that a Hainanese would like to patronize seafood restaurants in Hefei all day long.

Locals told me that this “Muzijia” seafood started from a small cart and expanded to a food stall step by step. In recent years, the current three-story restaurant has been built. There are also many such urban legends. For example, the famous urban crayfish chain “Amber Laoliu” is also a home from street carts, and the predecessor of the most famous chain restaurant in Anhui, “Laoxiangji” , is just a street. The stall is called “Feixi Old Hen” .

1 But your company’s Weibo really puzzled me a bit (it is said that it has been giggle for several years)

For so many years, “Laoxiang Chicken” does not seem to be too hasty to develop markets outside the province, but instead focuses on making a good taste that locals are willing to “come again”, so even for local friends, Laoxiang chicken appears occasionally Local delicacies in the takeaway menu may be a great honor for a hometown food chain brand.

And what I want to focus on here is the well-known milk tea brand Kawangka” in Hefei.

1 During the Dragon Boat Festival, riding an electric car carrying a bag of rice dumplings and sitting in Kawangka was not out of place at all.

“Kawangka” has been adopting the direct store model so far, which has a very good reputation in the industry and employee benefits; the first choice for many local friends’ milk tea has always been the cheap and big bowl of “Kawangka”, which is more expensive than paying a premium for chain brands. And shop rent, perhaps locals prefer local brands with the same quality.

1 Since the official has made a statement, it must be insisted

This may be the reason why Hui merchants are famous all over the world. This kind of “Confucian merchants” thinking of making money as a means has subtly influenced the simple and happy people of Hefei:

Confucianism is broad and profound, but the idea of ​​taking advantage of righteousness and taking advantage of righteousness has always been upheld and abide by Huizhou merchants. Hui merchants’ concept of “seeing profit and thinking about righteousness and taking righteousness for profit” not only originated from Confucianism, but also injected new connotations into Confucianism. —— “Jia Erhao Confucianism” of ancient Huizhou merchants

Hefei Food: What you eat is actually “world fireworks”

Perhaps because of its focus on local business, the small store in Hefei has attracted many netizens who are keen to “explore the store”. But with the local people leading the way, I have eaten many delicacies hidden in the alleys. The smell of Hefei, which I only love, has a “smoke” in it. Even in the era when this word has been broken by the Internet, I can’t find a more accurate word.

1 With a beautiful photo of Teacher Orange (the most handsome woman who invites me to eat and drink in her spare time is the most handsome)

As an old Hefei native born in Zhejiang, Mr. Chengzi took care of my eating and drinking in Hefei this year; there are more than 20 restaurants that I have eaten at, and most of the time I am happy, and occasionally some are commented on the Internet. An overly deified shop seems like a waste of time queuing up. But in the end, without exception, several small shops worth going back to are all located in private houses and alleys. Perhaps this is the “Taste of Hefei” in memory, which corresponds to the enduring saying “The fragrance of wine is not afraid of deep alleys”.

“Hokkien Seafood Noodles” with nowhere to park

The “Hokkien Seafood Noodles” recommended by Mr. Chengzi has also received rave reviews on a review website. It is said that two people who can eat it together can’t eat less than 100 yuan, so it is worth a try. If diners choose to park at the roadside in front of the store, they will inevitably be posted, so walking may be the best choice; but it is a 20-minute walk from the Dadongmen subway entrance and along Xiaoyaojin.

1 But there are always diners who risk getting a ticket and have a meal of seafood noodles.

Like many “small and beautiful” restaurants in Hefei, this seafood noodle is a “magic transformation” of the housing along the street on the first floor of a residential building. This kind of “pavement” can be regarded as a problem left over from history. If there is no hidden danger of food hygiene and safety, If it does not cause too much disturbance to the residents of the surrounding communities, the urban management and the street office will not deliberately make it difficult. It is worth mentioning that there are no sundries and kitchen waste everywhere. If you want to come to the store, you also understand this kind of harmony based on mutual respect between neighbors.

Claypot rice in the house at the end of the alley

1 The simple and cost-effective “flavored claypot rice” has almost become the standard configuration for every visit to Teacher Chengzi.

Needless to say about the taste, there are already many netizens who have visited the store on major websites and have given most of the praise .

The cooking method of claypot rice is similar, you just need to choose the main ingredients according to your personal preference; the proprietress is more sincere, like our friends who are good at chatting, the meat is always piled high every time. The environment on the first floor of the same residence is naturally a bit crowded, but I guess the owner also pays more attention to hygiene, because he often notices that there is no accumulation of fallen leaves and sundries in the courtyard of the community, and the diners in the same group will not shout , maybe it is Considering the surrounding environment, maybe he was busy eating meat while it was still hot, delaying the chat.

What’s interesting is that I, who have always been called a live map, need to turn on the mobile phone navigation again no matter which time I go, or go to the neighborhood from memory and ask for help from nearby residents and businesses. For friends who are keen on city walks and shop visits, the first visit will indeed be a unique experience of “treasure hunting”.

1 I often stopped at the alley and took pictures of this tree of unknown species outside the door several times.

Before the word “fireworks” was spread like an obsession on the Internet, the first immersive experience of fireworks in Hefei was at the end of this alley. Perhaps this kind of human fireworks exists in the neighborhood. It is not only the stove, the vegetable market and the surrounding hawkers, but also the life of the happy people around the community in the peaceful era. It is fascinating and unique. smell.

The treasure lobster shop “hidden in the community”

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This is a unique experience of exploring the store. I was used to following the navigation to find the storefront. For the first time, I doubted the power of technology. It was also about the name of the store owner and “hidden in the community”. For the first time, I fell into contemplation.

First of all, I often struggle with naming, always thinking of giving some unique cultural value through naming (stop making up stories about your junk art.jpg) as a flashy self-comfort; “The lobster had as much emotional impact on me as any Internet news.

It doesn’t matter what the name is, the main thing is that things are good – Zhou Shuren

1 This cart, which is hidden in the community, is an old shop that can actually be searched on a review website.

As a southerner who doesn’t eat crayfish often, it is really hard to resist the double impact of taste and spirit. The evaluation given by the review website is fair. The most recommended is the lobster noodles, which did not leave valuable video information. Although the egg noodles are mixed into the soup after eating the lobster without any technical content, the unique taste experience brought by the fresh ingredients is still worth a visit. try.

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Because there is no storefront, and there are no tables and chairs in the community (it is not appropriate to think about it), the two of them can only pack lobsters, walk into a nearby “Dajing Guai Soft Bun”, and order something shameless about 20 yuan. Sit down and eat lobster. The shop owner seems to be accustomed to this kind of behavior that should not be imitated, and there is no “contempt” that I am afraid of in the exchange.

Ramen in temporary memories

Because both work and life are far from the city center, I have visited this ramen in Hefei’s “Central City” almost once a week this year.

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Soy Sauce Ramen with Char Siew and Soft Egg Combination with a bottle of cold Asahi Beer , but spending 50 yuan is an acceptable luxury in a small place; plus I am good-looking, the boss often reserves a good spot for me, Occasionally, you can also send bottled water at a discount, just like love.

The boss and the master will occasionally chat with the guests when they are busy. Most of the topics are about work and life, as well as my favorite Japanese stories. Both the boss and the master have worked and studied in Japan for many years. The two elder brothers also took it lightly on the fact that their small store has been receiving good reviews on a certain review; they have declined the investment of some bosses and those who want to open franchise stores. The intention is to have an almost harsh insistence on quality. In this era, it can be regarded as the “artisan spirit” that we have passed on by word of mouth.

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Thinking about it, it can’t stand the pressure of the economy and store rent, and now it has also shown that it is closed on various platforms. The two old brothers who started a family and started a business may have to temporarily put aside their ideals for their family and livelihood. I hope that everything will be fine in their lifetime, and netizens will be able to eat such a comfortable taste again.

Cultural life, the street is worth a visit

At first, I was really not interested in some popular destinations, so I took a trip to the “Ku Street” on the recommendation of Mr. Chengzi, and I have to say that even the “Ku Street” that has been commercially developed to a certain extent , it’s worth a visit.

“Qiao Muli” and “Dixi Canteen”

The labels of Buddhist shopkeepers and literary youth can always impress some occasional hypocritical customers. The “Dai Xi Canteen” recommended by Mr. Chengzi is co-located with the grocery store “Qiao Muli” that I often visit. These are my two favorite small shops in “Qiao Muli”, and the owner of “Qiao Muli” Coke is my favorite store owner.

1 “Thi Xi Canteen” eats Japanese-style light meals. Of course, each platform has comments on the taste and environment, and it is mainly based on the comments of food bloggers.

Compared with the taste, the reason why Mr. Chengzi recommended this shop is, in her words, “life should be as healing as a stealthy canteen” .

The specific cure method may have to read the medical records of the netizens. I guess it may also be the tea soaked rice that focuses on low-calorie light food, which cured the burning of eating crayfish all the year round. As far as I know, the proprietress often closes the store on a willful vacation, but the dishes brought out at the time of opening are also limited supply based on inventory. Ignoring the evaluation of the so-called “hunger marketing”, I only think that this kind of mentality does not seem to care about selling more. , on the contrary, it has achieved product quality and more and more repeat customers.

1 Teacher Orange was in the store and gave me a green hat (literally)

Compared to eating, what I like more is the “Qiao Muli” next door. This small shop has a lot of interesting things in a mess; this kind of small grocery store is like a treasure trove, and you will see it every time you visit. “New gadgets” from all over the world, I think this is the “evidence” that the owner is living a good life. It is a place worth visiting. In addition to spending a little money to satisfy the desire to consume, the most enjoyable thing is to chat with interesting shopkeepers and customers.

1 I don’t know if this notice is still posted at the door of the store.

After reading this notice, I walked into this interesting shop, and now I have a different experience when I read it again. Perhaps as the owner “Coke” wrote: “Hefei is a very introverted city. On the surface, it is dull and smooth, but in fact it is cheerful like a spring breeze, and it is fun to stay for a long time.”

Finally, may you find “peace” in Hefei

After the Spring Festival in 2020, the peak of the first wave of the epidemic slowly faded away. I went to Hefei by chance. I wanted to stop for a while and rethink some problems that have plagued my career and life for many years. Although I haven’t found the answers to these questions after living in “Anhui” for a year and a half, I am healed by the natural and leisurely life of the city of Hefei, and by the optimistic spirit of the Jianghuai people, so I no longer have to worry about many things that I don’t need to worry about. people and things.

Perhaps as Mr. said:

The real purpose of life is determined by the Chinese people with a simple and obvious attitude. It exists in the happiness of knowing one’s destiny in order to enjoy a simple life , especially family life and harmonious social relations – Lin Yutang “My Country and My People”

Also known as “the place where my heart is at ease is my hometown” .

It’s the Chinese Valentine’s Day, and I have finished writing this manuscript, which has been unsatisfactory for two months. I wish you all the best of luck. At the same time, I wish everyone who enjoys loneliness temporarily can find their own “peace” in their own place. .

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